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What was the shaving tool you used to smooth the cuts?

Beautifully cut threads!

Tremendous!

Wow.Beautifull.😊

you make Mr. Chickadee look like a whiny cry-baby .... just joking, you are both purists i love to see succeed.

Wonderful instructions, but I still do not know at what angle to cut the two wooden blocks to hold the cutter blade. Just asking for a friend who wants to copy your creation 😊 .

Cool

Спасибо! Всё просто и понятно.

Tell us apart your particular rip saw; how many tpi, maker, age . Thanks.

You have far more free time than me

Nice and precise work! Videography is good as well.

Hieno! Pitikö hakea rakennuslupaa ja oliko sen kanssa vaikeuksia?

I love this, both the craftsmanship and the video style/editing. You've made me consider doing this instead of buying a metal vice screw

I'm very impressed with the precision of your work. Inspiring to watch

Fantastic work. A great finish, looks really nice, and functional too. Are you happy with it?

Nice work, looks like a lot stronger construction than what was originally there.

❤

Good stuff mate.

Awesome raised grain finish

This is an absolutely amazing work bench. Fantastic!

Superb screwology

Nice build, whats your experience with the rocsutec stone? Ive heard many times that this stone cuts to slow

How do you get access to the finer stones of Wästikivi? I've only seen the 600-1000 and felt like it would be handy to have a bit of a broader range of stones.

You are a legend dude! Master craftsman, amazing and inspirational to me

I find this so useful and empowering

Thank you for this video! I will try this out - you might have safed me from buying one of these expensive diamond stones.

Fiiiirst

I would be very interested in this finer stone. Unfortunately i could not find it anywhere. Only the 'normal' wastikivi seems available. Does anyone has a hint, where to find one??

Thank you for sharing all these little tricks😊

I am bit confused: old wood on new lucking foundations... are you building a new cabin with old logs? Than, you'd have made the shown job before putting the windows... hmm i m just curious😉

Thank you for this interesting video on an interesting topic! It seems to me, that you are using a rather small cordless drill - for this rather big job. Would you share some of your ideas and expirience about it?

I like this tiny little wooden plane you are using to bring the square wood to round. Did you make it yourself?

Nice video. It seems, that you are using these very cheap chinese blue drillbits. How you find them? Are they worth saving the money compared to european quality bits?

Incradible work.

Хорошая работа!)))

Thank you for sharing the build with us, can’t wait to cut some of these myself! And awesome plaid shirt, love that pattern, where can I buy one??

Fun!

Super 👌

Like a glove! ✊🍷🎩🎩🎩🙏

Very interesting plane, being a noob, I haven't seen this design before! Nice craftsmanship too... and my workshop don't even go above freezing in winter! Subscribed!

Will it hold the edge? Some of you have been asking - i have been wondering myself. It has been in use now for few weeks, i have used it for the new roof truss. And few days ago i decided to re sharpen it. Not because it was blunt, but because it was not perfectly sharp any more. Nor did i count the hours or cuts i have made, neither can i define in words what exactly i mean with 'blunt' or 'sharp' - but what i can share is, that it feels very similar to my new bought rip cut saw (William Greaves - Sheffield): they have been used and sharpened simultaniously. This saw has got two different hardenings: one on the tips only + one on the entire blade (if not, the blade would bent with the first stroke). So, the question is, if this softer hardening makes a useful saw or not. It might not work on any saw, but with this one, i can say that it worked out very well. Important is, to remove the hardened tips carefully, without overheating the blade and therefore destroying the second, softer hardening of the blade. In my case, the saw is made by Bahco with swedish steel (5-6€ cheap) Did someone try this out on other saws? How did it work out?

That is actually a nice looking little spoon...

Hood eork.🎉

I like your method of marking a pencil line, by sneaking the square up onto it. Never seen that before, but I sure will be using it forward! Thank you. And very nice, precision cutting. I wish for you, a nice wooden handle on your crosscut saw :) Also, very sharp chisels - beautiful result. Congrats Sir!

Just found your channel :-) What a beautiful and informative movie! Thanx for al the little tricks you shared. I specially like the curved braces and to put them in both different ways. Not every thing has to be made like in a schoolbook - It will add some kind of freedom spirit to your cabbine. As i am working similar project, there is one question turning around in my mind: Is it possible to use fresh wood or is it necessary to let it dry first? What did you use for your timber frame?

Sorry for the long comment, but perhaps you will find this information both corrective and useful in your future work...You kind of lost me on this one with "strong joint" unless that was a question (?) which in this case is, "Sorry, no, not really, for several reasons." First, I think this is out of context with Steve's work. Second, your relationship within the video's demonstration of a European version of a joint as compared to Japanese (or Asian timber frame joinery) is out of context as this more reinvented (or reinterpreted) European styles of joinery to some degree, and applying them to what is Asian modalities, while using a "mill rule" or "edge rule" layout system rather than what is found in Japan which is the ancient "Line Rule," modalities of layout which are very different systems and approaches. Third the nomenclature seems to be incorrect (???) as I have never heard of..."Kashigi Oozier Hobo Sash"...though this could just be a poor translation. If you did mean...傾ぎ大入れ - “Kashigi dai ire”...thought not “very strong in this application as would be a through tenon and wedges as found in Dutch Barns, or in the Japanese vernacular a 鼻栓 - “Bisen” type joint like… 鼻栓ホゾ - “Bisen hozo” in one of the larger forms… Your “Wedged Dovetail” (片下げあり - Kata sage ari) looks well executed, however they are seldom pegged as there is little reason to do so. Pinning the wedge in place would be more advantageous if worried about displacement over time as the “relish” on the tenon makes the pegs pointless. In a lateral load, the relish would just rip out. The tenon on the brace is entirely incorrect for taking the greatest advantage of the wood's natural strength. It is also an "oblique brace" in the vertical orientation which is seldom to never used in Asian architecture where (if used) is typically in the foundation and in a horizontal orientation from sill beam to sill beam (火打梁 - “Hiuchibari”)...or...in roofs from rafter plate to rafter plate. If vertical "brace beams" are employed they are huge and act as "wind bracing" within lashed rafter systems as found in traditional Minka… If this feedback was of value, please feel free to ask more questions...Thanks for sharing your work on this project...

Please find a better solution for camera holding. I almost got seasick from watching 😂 ..other than that - beautiful work. A true craftsman in action 👌

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Excellent video, thank you.

When doing this, should I saw the wood when it is already dry or should I cut fresh wood?